Temperature changes and weather – these are the main enemies of your chimneys. During combustion condensate forms in the chimney, as the temperature of the pipe during operation above the air temperature. Such condensate contains quite harmful impurities. In addition to water particles, acids and combustion products at sub-zero temperatures eventually lead to failure of the chimney. And usually this happens at the most active time of their use – in the fall or winter, and repairs will be very difficult and expensive.
In the winter and rainy weather all work on the roof of the house with a slope of more than 15% is prohibited on TB (safety engineering). The exception is an emergency (emergency situation): work is carried out with a lot of backups, and the cost of such work is very high. Therefore, to avoid such situations, I will tell you a few ways to avoid it and not only protect your chimney from all sorts of trouble, but also to ennoble it to the envy of others and to your joy! To solve this problem, the chimney cladding is performed on the roof and inside the house. The choice is made taking into account the overall decoration of the house.
Possible materials for the chimney cladding
What materials can be performed cladding? The easiest way is, of course, facing brick – either Italian or our domestic. This is quite trivial, and so I will suggest more interesting materials for cladding chimneys than just brick. It has one disadvantage – it can not be insulated, and if it is insulated, there is no point in spending on expensive bricks, if it will not be visible.
The next possible material is colored tin, using which you can save money. Finishing the chimney will be cheaper. We lay out a chimney from a simple domestic brick. If it is not insulated, then simply bent 2 U-shaped parts from the tin and fastened to the pipe with a mounting dowel. This is the work of roofers, as it is done on the roof. But if you think you can do it yourself, this article is for you.
Material and tools:
- Bar 40×30.
- Hammer + drill 6 and 8 mm.
- Hammer 6×80 mm.
- Press washers under the color of gesture or roofing screws, also under the color.
- Mineral wool for insulation.
- Screwdriver with three bits roofing and hexagon for amoschku.
- Fingers for fixing the mineral wool.
Cladding and insulation
The first thing you need to take care of when working on the roof is safety. After ensuring that the insurance working on the roof, you can begin to carry out the installation:
- Beams are fastened on the sides with brackets, checking the vertical level on each side – at least two bars. If the sides are wide, make three bars and calculate the connection points of tin beforehand. There fasten the bar.
- We lay mineral wool, drill holes, insert the mushroom and wedge.
- Mount the mineral wool on the side throughout the chimney mushrooms.
- The next step. We put the pre-bent tin on one side, fix about 2-3 press washers on the bar and also the second part of the tin. The joints are fixed press washers.
- On top close end angle of the same color, or you can choose another color – will also look good.
Natural lined slate
Natural slate has a great combination with almost all materials, non-combustible, durable and long-lasting. Roofing slate has any shape, so it is easy to work. And in addition, which is now more important, slate is natural, and therefore environmentally friendly material, it can be used if you are tiling inside the house.
For fixing slate tiles require copper nails with a diameter of 2.5 mm and a length of at least 40 mm. And with a wide head. Nails are not nailed to the end, there must be a gap between the cap and the slate tile. This is a requirement for all roofing materials, since the temperature changes can lead to deformation. The material breathes, waterproofing is not required when working with a chimney.
Installation of tiles is carried out in the same way as in the roofing tin is attached to the crate. Only observed pitch between the bars, bars are mounted in the corners of the chimney and if the distance is more than 60 cm, then another bar is put.
We expose extreme directing bars on a level, we stretch a cord or a fishing line, one at the top, one at the bottom, it is possible and in the middle, but it is at height of directing more than 2 meters, and further we put intermediate directing on a fishing line. You get one plane.
If necessary, insulate the chimney, as in photo 3.
The next step is to lay plywood sheets on the rails. And only after that we start laying slate tiles.
We make a step of fixing: the tiles on the tile should go within 1.2 or 1.3, not less and not more. Step marking: chalk on the level of the horizon draw a strip (on them we will fasten the nails strictly on the line), ie if the tile length of 30 cm, the step we have in 15-20 cm.
For reference: the angle of inclination of the tiles in the laying should not be less than 22º. With leaks, the cause is not in the tiles, but in the wrong laying and violation of technology.
Methods of laying slate tiles:
- Rectangular.
- Decorative (sharp corners).
- Wild.
- Universal.
- Scaly (“fish scales”).
Here are examples and ways of finishing chimneys that can be used both inside and outside the house.
Natural slate panels
This material is perfect for performing work inside the house, the panels are attached with tile adhesive, cement on a plastered levelled surface. Connect them with each other, inserting them into the grooves, as you see in the photo.
Facing with a wild stone
Carry out the lining of the chimney inside the house can also be other materials, for example, wild stone. You can use a stucco mesh, pre-fastened on the surface before laying the stone, which will add rigidity and adhesion to the surface and prevent flaking, which usually happens over time due to the stages of freezing and thawing and moisture ingress. Seams caulk – you can use a special gun or a pastry bag, filling it with cement The color of the seams can be changed by adding a tint to the cement.
Marble plaster
To be applied on the prepared cement plaster, pre-primed (primer for exterior works of deep penetration).
Dilute dry plaster mixture in a bucket according to the proportions indicated on the package. The mixture is sold in a dry form of white color, the color can be changed with a tint for putty.
We apply a thin layer, give time to dry, clean up with a steel brush. Setting time – 20-30 minutes. In the same way we apply the second layer, but it is better to apply all in one layer. The thickness depends on the size of the grains of marble crumb, you can choose yourself.
The mixture is applied with an iron trowel and spatula.
Process the surface with a grinder with a fine sandpaper.
After all grind with an iron spatula or trowel. The surface is cleaned from dust.
Venetian plaster
Rather expensive pleasure, but the beauty is worth it, although if you do everything yourself, it will cost you half as much. Sold white powder in bags, diluted with water, for color we add a tint. Applied with a trowel or trowel trowel. Trowel trowel comes in different shapes and directions.
On a plastered, primed, even surface, apply the first layer of plaster, let’s say, white, smooth it out.
Take plaster with black and white (to do this, mix a little plaster with black tint and add to the white, only slightly stirring), already prepared in advance by us and diluted with tint, using a trowel in circular or even movements, apply over the white, smoothing slightly.
Here we need the technology of forced drying. Use a construction dryer to dry the surface to the formation of cracks (the depth of cracks depends on the layer of plaster).
The cracks are treated with paint or varnish, let dry out a little and begin to polish with a grinder with null-wax sandpaper.
The surface is cleaned from dust and polished with a trowel.
The shiny surface with transitions from white to black and a unique pattern of colors when drying takes on the appearance of natural and solid marble.
